Christmas in T-Stan

Old habits die hard so although I haven’t been to church in over 3 months, I’m writing this while sitting in a church, or sorts. Actually, it’s the Vatican Embassy in Ashgabat, a house-like building behind a normal-looking gate with a plastic Christmas wreath on the door. Inside looks like a loved but under-funded home with walls painted the same yellowish beige that seems so universally chosen for religious interiors that it may be truly God’s will for the walls to make worshippers slightly queasy. The walls are covered with prints of Mother Theresa, a random Spanish saint, several Virgin Marys (including one that looks vaguely Turkmen and another vaguely Hispanic), a large glowing Jesus, and two carefully decorated but slightly bare Christmas trees. As is usually the case when I’m sitting in churches of any denomination, I feel slightly conflicted. On one hand, in my hand is a hymnal filled with “Amazing Grace,” “Lord of the Dance” (tune of “Simple Gifts”), “Joy to the World,” “O Little Town of Bethlehem,” as well as many other old and beloved favorites, but on the other hand, I’m sitting in a Catholic Midnight Mass that’s entirely in Russian (do you cross left to right or right to left? And why do they keep ringing the bell?). The only English was at the part when they served communion and the really hot priest (seriously, all of us are going to Hell) reminded us that it was “only for Catholics.” Eh. In general it was a lovely service. We sang “Silent Night” and “O Come All Ye Faithful” about eight times at different points before, during, and after - just the first verse of each, sung first in English, then Russian, then Polish, the German. By the end of the service the entire congregation (parish?) basically said “screw it” and we all sang it in our own language at the same time. The highlight of the experience -- the part that made leaving the debauchery in the hotel all worth it -- was the walk and cab ride there and back when the five of us belted out Christmas carols and hollared "Jingle Bells" to our driver's infinite amusement.

Across the world in about 10 hours when the 24th passes to the 25th, my parents, and whatever family decides to stay awake, will be at the midnight service lighting candles one to the other until the hall is lit only by several hundred small flames. The entire sanctuary will glow while the Stevensons’ operatic voices sing “Silent Light” and all the kids (and a few adults) play with the dripping wax of their candle and see how much they can tip it without wax getting on their bright red clothes. Still bursting with enthusiasm, we will clean up communion (raspberry juice so it will look bright red and Christmas-y – Mom’s theatrical touch to Christmas communion preparation) then run home to get lots of sleep for the long day of intense merriment ahead.

Written Christmas morning -
Last night ended watching "Secret Garden" with two good girlfriends (none of us brought X-Mas movies, but it has the same feeling) and getting the first full night of sleep after three days of clubbing and general debauchery (nothing serious, I'm still more crazy sober than drunk).

Christmas began at the PC Director's house where we were wined and dined on bread and juice and gave out our Secret Santa gifts. I received several blank notebooks and two really nice pens as my writing fetish has gotten around. After doing some shopping around with Andrea (who I will not see until April after we ship out tomorrow), I hung (am hanging) around the Peace Corps office playing Taboo with 15 other PCV, drinking two liters of Coke, and generally trying to enjoy the day and forget that tomorrow at 9am I'm leaving the world of pampered Americans. Baharly Here I Come.

Other important news, as of two days ago I am an official Peace Corps Volunteer, sworn in by the American ambassador while wearing a really nice dress (forgot to put the photos on the flash drive to post, oops) and wearing enough make-up to cause two friends to squint at my face and go "Annie?" Fun times. Hopefully I can put up a photo later the next time I have access to the internet - in a month. Write letters.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year (Taze Yyl)!!!!!!!